![]() This next bit can be difficult, just because of access! Get hold of a 'Haynes' manual or similar, you'll need the wiring diagram to identify which pins are which. (Testing 1-6 all together)Īssuming that the earths are fine, and there's no voltage on the low-beam pin, then the switch is our next suspect. Now switch back to low bean and check the other pin - if it's working, you should see 12v there too, but if there's a failure in the switch or wiring then you won't. Then use the 'voltage' function to check that you get 12v on the high beam pin when highs are on (which you should, as you know they are working!). ![]() Use the 'continuity' function on the meter to check that you've got a good connection from the earth pin (usually a black wire) to the battery negative. Get hold of a multimeter, and work your way backwards along the circuit checking for voltage/continuity - I'd probably start with the connection on the back of the bulbs first. We can assume the first three are fine (you've tested the fuse), and you've changed the bulb (always worth testing the new bulbs too, just in case!). We can break the circuit you're testing into several distinct parts: If they are separate bulbs then I'd suspect earth connections (as per Mike's comment). If you get the same behaviour on both sides, and you have twin-filament bulbs, then my first suspect would be the switch.
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